As far as keeping the pH in your aquarium at 7.0 this product works great if used according to the directions. It claims to remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia with some kind of "conditioning agents" and this may very well be true but if you rely on chemical means to remove ammonia as opposed to doing water changes you are minimally asking for stressed fishes if not sick or dead eventually. In any case, the downfall to this product is that it is made up of phosphate salts, which as you add this product to your tank it causes the phosphates (PO4) to build in concentration. High levels of PO4 in your aquarium is not what you want because it can and will cause algae blooms beyond your control. Ideally, PO4 levels in your tank should be zero to very low levels that can't be detected with colorimetric test kits. If you have algae problems in your tank I highly recommend investing in a PO4 test kit. You must do a water change to get rid of phosphates, don't rely on any product to remove PO4 unless you have a reef tank (salt water) and need to remove low levels!
As far as keeping your pH at neutral you would also make life much easier by investing in a pH pen (i.e. Waterproof pH Tester; ~$40-$100) and the calibration solutions for it. Use liquid pH down (API brand) and you can use store bought baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate; NaHCO3; Arm and Hammer brand fine...cheap too!) to bring your pH up; however, you may still want some liquid pH up too. The NaHCO3 will increase your pH and carbonate hardness (Alkalinity) helping to stabilize your pH as the phosphate buffers do in Seachem's Neutral Regulator WITHOUT the PO4! Turn your pH pen on and take the pH of your tank while you add pH up or down until you increase or decrease the pH by no more than 0.2 pH units. In other words, if your pH is 6.4 and you want to be at 6.9 increase it from 6.4 to 6.6 the first day. Then the next day go from 6.6 to 6.8 etc. My experience is that in the above example you'll find that the pH of 6.6 you set the day before will drop by the following day so just work your way up incrementally. This is because the organisms in your aquarium utilize the carbonate. Also get yourself a hardness test kit too (API brand) that gives you general and carbonate hardness and follow directions for adjusting to levels suitable for your fishes. Incidentally, Drs. Axelrod's and Burgess's fresh and marine atlases, respectively, provide this information for numerous fishes. I know this sounds complicated but the reality is this is the proper way to maintain a fish tank. It's a hobby and should be fun to do! Dedicate some time to caring for the water quality and you'll have much healthier, vibrant and happy fishes!
I purchased this product for my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium. My aquarium had been neglected for some time, and the nitrate levels were over 200ppm, GH over 400, and a KH that would hardly ready anything on the test strip. I added an incorrect buffer (too much baking soda) and shot my pH from 6.6 to 8.4, KH went to 300ppm. I need to get these numbers under control.
I did several water changes and my GH would only show a slight drop and my KH was not moving. My nitrate levels did decrease with better maintenance of the aquarium.
Over the course of 5 days I added 7 teaspoons of Seachem Neutral Regulator. The first day the water turned cloudy and this continued for 2 days. On the 3rd day, I added some AP Crystal Clear water clarifier, which caused the parcipitated calcium and magnesium to clump up and be captured by my HOB filter (AquaClear 50 with pre-filter sponge, biomax, matrix, and foam insert). Each day the pH started to decrease.
12-12-11
pH: 8.4.
Ammonia: 0ppm.
Nitrate: 60ppm.
Nitrite: 0ppm.
GH: 425ppm.
KH: 260ppm.
After adding Seachem Neutral Regulator from 12-16-11 to 12-21-11 (7 teaspoons total and no water changes):
pH: 7.6.
Ammonia: 0ppm.
Nitrate: 0ppm.
Nitrite: 0ppm.
GH: 120ppm.
KH: 120ppm.
Seachem Neutral Regulator softens water, neutralizes ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite.
20 gallon high tank, with undergravel filter, and an old penguin biowheel 100 (upgraded to AquaClear 50 on 11-25-2011). Aquarium has been operating for just under 5 years.
1mature angelfish.
4albino cory catfish.
3guppies.
4platies.
5ghost shrimp.
Several ramshorn snails.
The product does what it says it will do. Although I am currently only at a pH of 7.6, this product is trying to overcome a carbonate based buffer that wants to keep my pH at a high level (8.4). Seachem Neutral Regulator is a phosphate based buffer and had clearly done its job by reducing the pH, GH, and KH.
I would buy this product again and recommend it to others. Please keep in mind that a phosphate based buffer can cause algae growth if planted aquariums. My aquarium is planted, but with plants that do well in low light. Higher light levels can lead to unwanted algae growth (as indicated by the manufacturer).
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I'm essentially going to copy my review for Acid Regulator in this space, because in my experience, the two products are linked I use them together.
Maybe I shouldn't be surprised as to how effective, after all Seachem is a company worth its salt, but I haven't had success with all of their products (Acid Buffer, PH Alert) but I have adored Prime, Flourish and now the "Regulator" series.
Anyway, when used in conjunction with Acid Regulator, the efficacy is amazing. In buffered water the results are extremely predictable. I keep Clown Loaches, Neon Tetras, Albino BN Plecs, and Cories, so soft, slightly acidic water is needed. Finally, a product that helps me get there, and stay there.
I brought the pH down from an enormous 8.0 to 6.8 over the course of 6 weeks (so as to not shock the fish). I have let it lie for 1 week since and the pH is stable. I had to do a little improvising... since my initial pH was so high, and my tap water so unbuffered, I needed more than the recommended dose. I had to add a small amount almost every day after the initial dose, and monitor the results closely with a pH liquid test. (For this I chose API's tests the pH tests are accurate). I would take 4 test tubes, and keep up to 4 previous measurements over the days, so I could see the subtle changes in pH. Trust me, you almost have to do this to tell the difference between, for example, 7.6 and 7.4 on the low pH scale.
Anyway, ever since achieving the target pH of 6.8, I don't need to add Regulator all the time anymore, just when doing a water change. I did one today, added the 1:1 dose of Neutral Reg to Acid Reg and guess what? My pH stayed exactly at 6.8. Awesome.
Ever since getting the pH to where it needed to be, my fish have thrived. They are active, lively, eating well, and growing.
Neutral Regulator works, and it WILL bring your pH to 7, and it WILL buffer your water, even if it softens it, and keep your pH stable.
I dock a star because it's expensive, and because it wasn't particularly intuitive how to use it for proper results. But it wasn't rocket science either, just basic science. :)
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I bought this when I had just moved to a new place. I hadn't fully tested the water but I knew the pH was way too high. Unfortunately this regulator didn't really work but it was because my carbonate levels were out of control. If pH is your only issue then this stuff will probably be great for you. Just make sure you test your water first.
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Pour right into tank and it works instantly and doesn't harm the fish. Also great at Maintain Ph levels in your fish tank
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This lamp is cheap. Did not put out enough light. I bout a replacement after only using it for an hour. It does not have white light. It puts off a yellow hugh.i
