** Update/Added Comment: I just wanted to add to this review that Seachem Onyx fractured substrate (sand) is a REALLY good looking addition to these Chi setups. If you want to bring out the color of any plants or aquatic life in a Chi, especially Red Cherry or Ghost shrimp, put the Onyx substrate in there. It's pure black and sets everything off perfectly. It also contributes minerals to the water! ****** Update 2012-Jan-31 : A cover is now available for the Fluval Chi Fluval Chi Cover and works for the 5 and 6.6 gallon models. This is great if you're concerned about an aquatic pet jumping out. ***
*** Update 2013-Jun : About 18 months after first setting the tank up, the LED lights went out. They have been in constant use since setup, so around 13,200 hours. That's a low lifetime for LED's. The fact they all went out at once leads me to believe either the power circuitry had an issue (likely, since the low lifetime) or the LED quality was poor. I'm going to investigate, and install some new LED's of my own to increase WPG for my new natural setup. I will report back.
I didn't purchase my Chi from Amazon, but I've had it for a year and wanted to share my input. This is a perfect aquarium for some aquarium life/plants, or even just to have plants only. In fact, I'm buying two more this week for my living room!
There's several great reviews which go over the Chi in depth so I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if you'd like to see those as well just go check out the 4 & 5 star reviews.
What I want to bring attention to is the fact that most, if not all, of the reviews under the 1 & 2 star section aren't the fault of the Chi, they seem to be the fault of an inexperienced aquarist or someone who hasn't done the research on the type of life they're putting in the tank, with exception of one or two reviews which mentioned equipment problems such as the power supply going bad.
Fluval doesn't put out poor products, they are TOP NOTCH. As such I wanted to share general "good aquarist" habits and my personal experience with the Chi, so all can rest assured it's a solid product. Let me comment on a few common things I found in the "bad" reviews, to help guide those who may be on the fence.. here's a quick index of my review, skip to the section which interests you the most:
Review Index:
* My Present Setup 1 year and loving it
* Use Live Plants AKA, how to enhance water quality, aquarium life and cut down on algae
* Lidless Aquarium This isn't bad, just do research
* Filtration on the Chi sucks AKA, It's actually a perfect design
* Don't follow the Filtration Instructions AKA, follow these instead
* Brown Goop on the Cube This is normal
* Loud Chi/Filtration Noises AKA, I'm probably not maintaining the proper water level
* I have algae problems because the Chi sucks AKA, I'm probably not taking proper care of the water
* I had a bunch of fish and the Chi killed them AKA, I put too many fish in and I killed them
THE REVIEW:
* MY PRESENT SETUP, one year later I'm still loving it
What I have:
* I have mine at work.
* I have 6 live plants in it (mentioned in the section below)
* A compact heater to maintain temperature, which lays in the back behind the cube which sits on the bottom, so it's out of view.
* I have a small air line running in the back over the heater, also out of view--I use this to help maintain gas exchange. This is primarily because I don't want excess C02 to buildup in the water because if the marine life I have in the aquarium (dirtier life than normal). I hardly hear the bubbles.
What I do:
* I turn the light on when I get in, and turn it off when I leave, so it's on 8/off 16.
* I feed my aquarium life every few days, but never to excess, only what they can eat
* I clean the aquarium up once a week at the minimum (sometimes twice), about 1/3rd of the gravel one week, another third the next and so on. I never clean all the gravel at once
* I do a weekly water change of about 1 gallon at the most, sometimes only half a gallon.
* I replenish (top off) evaporated water every few days
* Only when the filter starts losing water flow do I clean the white filter element, and I only clean it in dirty water-change water (see my notes below)
* I suppliment the aquarium once a week with a small dose of calcium I use Seachem's Aquavitro. This is for the snail's health, and helps balance hardness. Aquavitro Calcium is branded as a Marine (saltwater) product, but is perfect for Freshwater as well
* I suppliment the aquarium once or twice a month with plant nutrients from Flourish This is only if you're serious about lots of plants, for most, just putting the plants in is enough
* I prepare tap water before it goes in to the aquarium. The product I use is Seachem's Aquavitro Alpha. Aquavitro Alpha is branded for Marine life (reefs, saltwater, etc), but is PERFECT for freshwater. It's very concentrated. Only .5ml is needed for 15 gallons. In other words, a couple of drops for a gallon. Swish it around, and within a minute it's ready.
* I enjoy every moment of having the Chi in my office
What I don't have, notice or do:
* I never hear the Chi pump making noise unless the water gets too low (usually after a 4 day weekend).
* I don't have algae
* I've never had algea blooms all over the place covering the walls or rocks or gravel
* I don't get my hands wet when turning off the light (not sure why some people do, you just reach for the back of the switch, not the top)
* I don't have cloudy water UNLESS a mini-cycle has occured because of the poor water quality where I work, and usually only after changing too much water
* I don't frequently clean the filter or replace it--you never should...only clean it when you NEED to, and you should never HAVE to replace a filter
* I've never replaced or cleaned the black filter element
* I've never blamed the Chi's design, or Fluval, for a mistake I made
* I don't have poor water quality, my Chi is fully cycled and the bacteria eat up a bunch of the waste--the plants do the rest. The filter merely cleans out any debris.
* I haven't had to clean my white filter element in 2 or 3 months
My Aquarium Life:
* 5 Mystery snails (I breed them at home, 2 of them are over a year old and fathers to the other 3 which I brought to work)
* 2 Nerite snails
* A few pond snails
* A few Malaysian trumpet snails
Something to note, Mystery Snails poop a lot, they're basically food processors. This is why I have to clean the gravel more frequently than if I only had a small fish or Betta. Nerite, Pond and Malaysian snails have a very low bio load and are much cleaner (they poop MUCH less), so I suggest them in any combination with fish. Don't put 5 Mystery snails AND fish in a Chi. You could have one Mystery and some fish though, or several Malaysian Trumpet/Pond snails and fish.
For food, I use algae chips mostly, supplimented with some flake food. Algae chips produce less ammonia/nutrient waste as it sits in the water, compared to flake food. Flake food in any level of excess, will cause a cycle (cloud in the water) because it breaks down so much quicker. Keep that in mind.
It's sometimes good to have Malaysian Trumpet snails in any tank, or a Mystery snail. They don't eat your plants, and they're like Canaries in the sense that if something is bad in your water quality, MTS will usually run to the top of the tank to try and get out, and Mystery snails will usually curl up in their shells. So keep that in mind. Also if you have Mystery snails constantly trying to escape, you may have water quality issues.
Contrary to what you might think, my water quality is actually good. Little to no ammonia (less than .25 measurable), and the nitrates/nitrites are insignificant. This is due largely to the live plants and the gas exchange I have incorporated into the Chi. With fake plants, these inhabitants would've died shortly after being put in.
I have had my male Betta in it, but took him out because he wanted to try and jump no matter what I did and didn't feel comfy with him being there while I was away from work.
Again, something to keep in mind, I've had my Chi up and running for a year with no loss of life due to the Chi.
* USE LIVE PLANTS NOT FAKE ONES
I mention this first because it can help solve a couple of problems. For one, live plants don't cause algae.. they usually prevent it by filtering the water from excess nutrients and poison. They also look better, and your aquarium life will love you for it.
Please do the research on the right plants to put in your aquarium, because the Chi's lighting system can only support a certain amount of plants (low light level plants). You have to get low light level plants, or might be able to squeeze by with moderate light level plants as well. Also, dosing with plant nutrients from the aquarium store can help over time, but that's for another review another day. Talk to your local aquarium expert on that particular expert.
Here's plants I presently keep in my Chi which have flourished (what I mean is, they haven't died and they continue to actually grow and expand):
* Amazon Sword I started out with a little 3" plant a year ago, and right now it's reaching the cube and has bushed all the way out to cover a large portion of the center part of the Chi. It started out with only a few leaves, it now has over 20.
* Anubius Nana This is the smaller Anubius, but you could use the full size. The smaller just looks better. This has branched out a little bit over the past year, the good news is it hasn't died.
* Pennywort Good floating plant, it can be planted or left floating. Bettas and shrimp LOVE these. You can also easily cut these to whatever lenght or arrangement you desire, they branch out from both cut ends.
* Hornwort Good floating plant which can be planted or left floating. Bettas and shrimp LOVE these. You can also easily cut these to whatever lenght or arrangement you desire, they branch out from both cut ends.
* Anacharis Some call this a weed plant. It's very hardy, and can be planted or left floating. You can also easily cut these to whatever lenght or arrangement you desire, they branch out from both cut ends. Even without light these things grow.
* Italian Val This guy has streamers running all over the Chi all the way to the surface
* Banana Plants These things are neat and super hardy. Just grab a few and toss them in any tank, even without light these things grow.
One thing I suggest if you have a planted aquarium is to ensure the water surface is being constantly agitated. The Chi's filtration cube does this well, but for even greater live plant performance and healthier water for your fish, a tiny air line running in the back pushing bubbles to the surface will do nicely. It just has to flow enough to break the surface tension.
* LIDLESS AQUARIUM
The Chi is a lidless aquarium, as part of its styling...it's not meant to kill your fish on purpose! Being lidless will contribute to a little bit more water evaporation than normal if the water/air temperature is above the mid 70's. Also if you have any life which might hop out (such as an African Dwarf Frog, Betta, Snail, etc..), be aware of this fact. It's up to you to take care of them. Most dog owners wouldn't leave their gates open while the dogs are in the yard, without a collar. Don't put Betta or ADF into a lidless aquarium.
If some part of life you put in the aquarium flies out, it's not because of a poor design on Fluval's part, it's because you weren't responsible enough to manage the situation.
IF YOU WANT A LID OR NEED A LID OR EQUIVALENT, then check this out. If you absolutely needed a lid you could have one made (yourself or ask someone) out of acrylic or glass, and would cost less than $10. Or, here is a natural healthy alternative: Floating plants. Yes, floating live plants.
You could get some Hornwort or Pennywort from most aquarium stores (sometimes even free if you just ask), and let it float in the top. Pennywort covers more surface area than Hornwort, but everyone has a preference. What this does is help keep the water clean by absorbing poisonous nutrients from the water, and encourages hopping fish to stay in the water. Even if they tried hopping, enough surface plants will prevent them from getting out. Also fish enjoy natural foliage, many times you'll see a Betta just floating beneath leaves, they truly enjoy it.
For most Bettas, this will prevent them from wanting to hop out. I found that Betta personalities vary greatly. One of mine won't be tempted to jump if the surface of the water is calm, but if its rippling (as with the Chi), he'll want to hop out.
I successfully had an ADF in the aquarium by merely covering up the corners with some clear plastic or screen-door screen (he would crawl up the corners). I had a Betta who liked trying to jump out, I prevented that by lowering the water level to about 1" under the lid of the glass.
* FILTRATION ON THE CHI SUCKS, when in actuality it doesn't
The filter works just fine for the Chi as long as you don't overload the system and let the aquarium fully cycle! If you have a Chi which seems cloudy or "milky", the water isn't dirty, it's cycling. If you do a search online for 'aquarium cycling' you will find a plethora of information. Don't presume the filtration isn't working because the cloudy water is actually proof that it IS working. The best method IMO is "fishless cycling", so check that out.
Whether you cycle with or without something in the Chi, it will take about a month to fully complete the cycle. This is because the Chi is small and it's very hard to get the biological balance perfect. Slight ammonia spikes will cause a mini-cycle, so don't worry about that. Depending on your life load in the aquarium, you should be vacuuming the gravel once a week (take care not to vacuum all of it fully.. perhaps just half of it fully, then the other half the next week).
* DON'T FOLLOW THE FILTER CHANGING INSTRUCTIONS, follow these instead
This relates to cycling. Fluval would have you changing the filter very frequently, which will prolong cycling (see above) and is actually unhealthy for your inhabitants. The only filter maintenance you should ever have to do is if the water flow in the filter starts dropping drastically. At that point, remove the white filter pad and gently clean off SOME of the goop (not all) in a bucket of WATER CHANGE WATER.. the stuff you drain out of the tank during a water change. DO NOT CLEAN IT IN TAP WATER. You could also "squeeze" it rather than wiping off goo, if that's better for you.
You will never have to replace a pad for many many months, if at all, if you do this properly and the tank has fully cycled. The black sponge shouldn't ever need replacing. Right now I've had my Chi a year and have never replaced the black pad, and only replaced the white filter pad once due to me messing up a filter pad once.
If you do need to replace a pad for whatever reason, put a new one in the top of the cube and let it sit there for a few days so that the cleansing bacteria can attach itself to this new pad, and then install it.
Some people prefer to unplug the filter to clean it, I simply flip the cube over and take care of business. I then flip it back. In all, filter maintenance takes me at most 90 seconds. Remember to turn off the blinding light first. If you handle your filter in this manner, you will enjoy your Chi forever and your aquarium life will love you for it.
* BROWN GOOP ON THE CUBE IS NORMAL
This is good bacteria typically. In a properly cycled aquarium with bacteria cleaning the water for you, any area of prolonged exposure to "water fall" (thin sheets of water flowing), you will have these bacteria grow. For the health of the water, it's actually best not to clean it off. This isn't algae, this is good bacteria. If you do need to clean it off, clean the front only, or if you must, whatever side you view the most.
If you clean all of it, do NOT clean it off the backside. You want some to remain, otherwise you could have a mini-cycle as the bacteria need to "regroup" and build their life back up.
* LOUD CHI/FILTRATION NOISES ARE NOT NORMAL, it usually means you aren't properly maintaining water level
If this is your situation, your water level isn't high enough or the pump isn't primed. If your water level is actually high enough and the pump is primed, then something has gotten into the pump somehow which isn't normal. Contact Fluval if that's the case.
For average water/air temperatures in the mid 70's, if the water was originally filled to about 1/8" from the top of the lid, you can go about 3 days before water needs to be added. By the end of the 3rd day, the pump may start struggling to pump water (you'll notice the noise and gurgling). In other words, every 2 or 3 days top off your water.
Water level can be up to the edge of the lid (though in many cases I wouldn't suggest it), and as low as about 1/4" from the bottom of the filtration cube. Those are your MAX/MIN LIMITS. Do not try to operate the aquarium beyond those! Ideally you will want the water level to be filled up to about 1/4" from the top of the lid for aquarium life which does NOT JUMP, and for anything which does jump you'll want it about 1" from the top. Bear in mind this will NOT guarantee something can't escape. An African Dwarf Frog (ADF) CAN ESCAPE even if the water level is 2" below the top. You need something like a lid to keep an ADF in the Chi. The Chi isn't the best aquarium for an ADF anyhow, but that's for another review.
Once your water level drops too low, either due to evaporation or whatnot, you need to replenish it. Too low is easily identified by loud pump noises or when the pump stops pumping altogether. Also it's easily recognized as getting too close to the bottom of the cube. So let's review:
Max Water Fill: Up to the lid
Average Water Fill: 1/4-1/2" from the top of the lid
For Jumping Water life (Betta, ADF, etc): 1" from the lid + you might need a lid (or plantlife.. see my section on LIDS up above!)
Never let the water drop below the cube or close to the bottom!
* I HAVE ALGAE PROBLEMS OR POOR WATER QUALITY BECAUSE THE CHI SUCKs, which usually actually means you aren't taking proper care of the Chi
The Chi is a small volume aquarium, and with small volume comes high responsibility. Don't expect to just toss stuff in and let the filter take care of it. Let me try to explain biological balance with another type of balance:
Grab a pen or pencil and balance it on the tip of your finger, by simply laying it on there. You should find balance in the middle of the pen/pencil, and you'll probably find it very quickly. If you move your hand around you'll find it tends to keep its balance for the most part. Pretty simple isn't it? Imagine the pen/pencil, laying on its side, as a large volume of water, such as 50 or 100 gallon aquarium.
Now, take the pen or pencil and tip it up on either the writing-point or the other end, and try balancing it on the tip of your finger. You might find it's a bit harder to balance, and even the slightest movement causes it to lose stability. Imagine that as a small volume of aquarium water. This is what you have with the Chi. You have to find balance, and you don't want to lose that balance.
This relates to aquarium cycling which I mentioned earlier, you can research 'aquarium cycling' and find plenty of info.
WHY ALGAE??? Usually algae is the result of excess nutrients (typically the bad kind), enough light, lack of water circulation, excess C02, lack of filtration, or any combination. In many new aquariums (ones where the water/bacteria haven't matured), you'll quickly get brown or tan colored algae, but over time as things mature it will go away.
Greenish and blue algaes are typically because you're not doing enough to clean the water (excess feeding, not enough gravel cleaning, etc). Do a search for 'reasons for aquarium algae' and you will find plenty of information on it. Here are two VERY helpful links which explain the reasons for, and how to cure, an algae problem:By the way if you do have some algae or concern yourself with algae that could appear, here's a couple of healthy natural suggestions:
> Live plants. Yes.. they actually do not CAUSE algae, they help prevent it by sucking up the excess nutrients/poison.
> Freshwater Nerite Snails are known to mow down algae quicker than it can grow, and they're hardy creatures
Basically if you're having out of control algae, don't blame the Chi, because it's probably not the filter or the Chi or Fluval. Something else to keep in mind is water surface gas exchange. I mention this under the Live Plant section. The Chi's filtration cube does a good job of keeping the water surface moving, but the more you break the water surface the more gas exchange (C02 out of the water, Oxygen into the water) can occur. This helps prevent algae as well. A small air tube running into the back of the Chi can do wonders.
* I PUT A BUNCH OF FISHIES AND LIFE IN TH CHI AND THE CHI KILLED THEM ALL, no actually you killed them by suffocation
I hear this a lot with any aquarium, but especially the small ones. Many experienced aquarists will tell you that once an aquarium has fully cycled (and not before), you can have about 1" of adult fish per gallon. This doesn't mean 1 fish per gallon, it means 1" of surface area of the fish per gallon. This is a GENERAL rule, as some fish are cleaner (have less bio load) than others.
For example, Goldfish tend to be dirtier than a Neon Tetra. By the way, speaking of Neon Tetra, they are grouping/schooling fish meaning you'll need to have 6-12 or more of them for the fish to be happy. You can't put that many Neon Tetra in a Chi. A single Betta in a Chi will work well. Several Ghost Shrimp will work just fine (you could probably have 5-10 actually, as shrimp have a very low bio load).
I can't go over all the fish combinations, but do some research on the kind of fish you're going to put in there. Generally you won't have more than 5, or even 3. If you put too much life in there, no matter the combination, they die of suffocation in their own filth. Imagine locking yourself in the bathroom, filling the entire room halfway up with water, and living in it for a month. You wouldn't make it. If you did make it, you wouldn't want to have made it.
There's other life you can have in the aquarium also, not just fish. You can have snails for example. Mystery Snails are popular. They poop a lot, trust me on this, I have had several hundred at once (not in a Chi of course) and it's overwhelming. So you could have 1-5 Mystery Snail in a cycled Chi without an issue as long as you clean up after them (which will be every few days).
Here's what I suggest, if you want a Betta you could also put a couple of Nerite snails in there as well (Mystery Snails are great, but Betta tend to nip at the antenna). Nerite snails are like tanks, they are hardcore, very strong, their shells are like rocks, and fish can't nip at them. They also clean up algae!
PROS
The form factor is just right for a desktop or small table because it's more vertical than horizontal. The tank only takes about 10 square inches of space.
The overall look of the aquarium is pleasing to the eye. The shape is modern, the glass is clear, and the little water movement on the top is enjoyable without being distracting.
You don't hear the filter at all and the sound of the water is quiet and peaceful. You can control the volume of the water sounds by taking out all of the rocks on the top filter (for the most noise with a little splashing out of the aquarium) or add more rocks to reduce the sound (and splash) of the water. These rocks come with the aquarium.
CONS
Don't be scared away by the cons because they're not completely unreasonable for this size of an aquarium.
Managing PH and ammonia levels in a small tank is harder than in a larger tank because everything changes faster. That means you may have to do more frequent partial water changes on this tank than on larger ones. I tend to do water changes 1-2 times a week.
The aquarium is only 5 gallons, so you are limited in the number of fish you can/should add. The general rule of thumb is one gallon per one inch of fish.
The filter is in the box at the top. To change it you have to unplug the aquarium (no switch), take out the rock tray (drips water), and then turn the top box over to extract the filter.
The light is connected to the filter, so you can't set up a timer to turn the light on/off.
There's no lid to the aquarium, and some fish like to jump, which could result in their untimely death. When the water is at the correct height, the top of the glass is less than 1 inch away.
The constant flow of the water on top of the tank forces the food down into the aquarium too quickly when the fish are feeding. I tilt the filter box just barely in one direction so the water will be more peaceful on the side with less water flow. This helps a bit, but I still have to clean the gravel more than I should.
WHAT ELSE YOU WILL NEED
The aquarium doesn't come with everything you need to get started. You will need to purchase:
* heater
(Unless you're just getting a goldfish, you need a heater to keep the temperature consistent. A lot of the small ones are preset to 76 degrees, but I suggest you get one with an adjustable thermostat in case you get fish that prefer a different temperature. Don't put off this purchase or you may lose some fish.)
* thermometer
(You need to verify that the heater is keeping the water at the right temperature. You can get one of the ones that sticks to the outside of the tank.)
* gravel for the bottom
* plants
(Type and amount depends on what fish you pick. You will want plants between 3-7 inches. Plants should not touch the heater. You can get real plants if you want, but I didn't. The tank isn't really big enough to add plants that keep growing.)
* ornaments
(For hiding places and decoration. Depends on fish you pick, but some bottom feeders prefer to have a hiding place. The Fluval Chi pieces that they make for the middle of the aquarium are short enough to go under the filter and some have plants built into them. But you don't have to get the Fluval Chi decorations.)
* gravel vacuum
(You need a way to clean out the stuff that collects in the gravel. The cheap way is a gravel vacuum which siphons the water out. You need this for water changes.
* bucket
(Used to catch the water from the gravel vacuum. It needs to hold up to a gallon of water. Partial water changes take out around 10-20% of the water.)
* net
(To get the fish out of the pet store bag and into the aquarium and for other maintenance.)
* algae scraper
(You can wait on this one, but if all goes well algae will grow on the glass and you will need to scrape it off. I got a scraper that has a plant holder on the other end to help put plants back at the bottom when they inevitably pop up.)
* gallon jugs (2)
(You need to prepare your replacement water ahead of time. I use two jugs that used to have distilled water in them. You will need to top off the aquarium every 1-2 days as the water evaporates fairly quickly since there is no lid to the aquarium. And when you do water changes you'll need more replacement water. Having the jugs lets you treat the water in advance and lets it get to room temperature before you put it into the aquarium.)
* replacement filters and pad
(You have to replace the filters about every 2-4 weeks and the pad about every 2-3 month. This is just a recurring cost that you have to factor in to your purchase.)
* fish and fish food
(It's tempting to get the fish the day you get the aquarium, but most experts seem to suggest cycling the aquarium before adding fish. This means running the aquarium for a few weeks before you add fish so the bacteria you need in the water can start to grow before the fish start contaminating the water with their waste. If you just can't wait that long, just get 1 or 2 fish at first and add another couple later on when things get going. One exception may be if you're getting a goldfish or beta fish, which seem to be heartier than the typical tropical fish.)
OTHER TIPS
I placed my aquarium against a wall, so I ended up adding a background sheet that hid the cables and other stuff on my desk that was behind the aquarium. The dark blue metallic paper made it easier to see my fish.
I had a hard time turning the light off/on until I realized that there was a raised part of the plastic to lock the light into place when it's on. You have to move the switch away from the filter housing slightly to get it over this small piece of plastic. It's easy to do once you realize the trick, but it's hard to see it.
The box suggests the following fish for the Fluval Chi aquarium: Goldfish, Betta Splendens, Guppies, Danios. I have 3 Glofish in mine (an interesting genetically modified Danio) with an Angelica Botia (bottom feeder that I'll have to move to a bigger tank eventually) to clean up the scraps. I suggest you get one bottom feeder like a Cory to help control the food that gets to the bottom. Note that most of the cooler bottom feeders get too big for this size tank, but the Cory is okay. I don't think Betta fish really like the current created by filters. I got that advice from the internet, so you know it must be true.
I just read the other reviews and I have to say that there's no problem with the filter--it's plenty strong enough. Also, the cloudy water doesn't have anything to do with the aquarium. You have to vacuum the gravel and do the partial water changes and clean the filter as the instructions tell you. You don't need to add chemicals to clear the cloudy water--just vacuum to get the water out for the partial water changes.
CONCLUSION
I like my Fluval Chi (5 gallon) aquarium. It works well for my office. I'd highly recommend it for Glofish/Danios, Guppies, and Cories when space is very limited. If you have more space and want tropical fish, I'd go for a 20+ gallon tank so you can get more (and bigger) fish, have an easier time controlling the chemical levels of the water, and have a lid.
Buy Fluval Chi Aquarium Kit Now
The Chi is just gorgeous, it's a beautiful piece of art for a fish to live in. And when I say A fish, I mean a SINGLE fish.There is absolutely nothing wrong with this tank other than the fact that the people typically buying it have not bothered to research that you can not jam 10 fish in a 5 gallon tank. Of course this tank's filtration system isn't powerful enough to clean water from 10 fish, it was never meant to have that many. Nor is any 5 gallon tank. The way to keep your tank clean and clear? Let it go through it's cycling process (which takes months, not weeks), don't overfeed, and please, if you want your fish to live, do not overstock your tank! The rule of thumb is for every gallon of water you have 1 inch of adult fish (in community tropical settings), and it doesn't apply to all fish. So, on average you get 5 fish for the 5 gallon tank. Make your fish even happier by allowing them to have space (so they don't stress out over territory) and only putting 1-3 in a 5 gallon. Fish usually end up dying in their own ammonia build up in an overstocked tank a great way to go, eh?
This tank is beautiful, tranquil, and perfect for a betta or 3 fancy guppies, but not much else... Like all other small tanks (and despite it's own advertising, most advertising preys on the mass' ignorance). This isn't a problem with this tank, but par for all small tanks. I HIGHLY recommend this aquarium for those with a betta. Please people, remember to research animals before you bring them into your home that way you can enjoy aquariums like these for what they have to offer.
Read Best Reviews of Fluval Chi Aquarium Kit Here
Disclaimer:I am a novice at this. This Review is based on only six weeks experience with: 1 male betta, 1 java moss ball, one java fern, Aqueon 50-Watt heater and CaribSea Eco-Complete substrait. The tank cycled in two weeks and has stayed stable since then. I am also in no way affiliated with any websites I link to.
The Good first (naturally):
-Attractive design...if you're into this sorta thing.
-Solid enough build quality. (Still made in the Glorious Peoples Republic of China...)
-SUPER quiet! You can move rocks around to dampen the gurgling water sound. The actual filter pump is almost silent!
-Built in light is convenient. (And it's not THAT dim...)
The Not So Good: (For me at least, but maybe not for you!)
-Light in fountain stays on ALL THE TIME. (seriously trippy at night)
-Filter placement and design.
It may look nice to have that filter placed in the middle of the tank will water cascading down the sides. But, if you have a betta fish or any species that don't like current this is a HORRIBLE set up for them. The waterfall effect creates a pretty strong down current in the center of the tank, and an equally strong up current at the sides. This may be great for filtering, but our long finned friends do not appreciate it! Gromit would get taken for a ride up and down with the current and try to stuff himself into a corner behind one of the moss balls to escape.
The center mounted filter also takes up a lot of real estate, which because of the current made feeding a challenge.
I was able to move the filter to the side, but it was no longer on its clip so it could tip rather easily. This helped a little, but not much. Next I used 3/8 inch tubing to direct the outflow of water into the corner with the heater. This helped a lot but was not the most attractive thing in the world. It also meant that the water was not getting aerated at all. To fix the aeration problem I created a little venturi that was very effective, if not rather loud...
I finally gave up on the stock filter all together and picked up a Deep Blue BioMaxx Nano HOB filter from the local pet shop. It says its good to 4 gallons or less, and I could not find a single review of it online anywhere, so I was a little hesitant. I had nothing to worry about. It flows about TWICE as much water as the Chi's stock filter and produces much less current (adjustable flow and Hang on Back, not middle). It also takes regular sponge type media with lots of room for good bugs to grow.
SUMMARY:
If you really like the looks of this aquarium and don't have fish that hate current, GET IT!
If you really like the looks of the tank, maybe not so much the filter, AND have fish that DO hate current, there is still an option!
I have linked products for this second option below.
Replacement Tankhttp://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Glass-Tank-Replacement-Aquarium/dp/B005ZTZ5O2/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1363990122&sr=8-15&keywords=fluval+chi+tank
Filterhttp://www.amazon.com/Fish-Aquatic-Supplies-Biomaxx-Filter/dp/B007AA9IM4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1363989161&sr=1-1&keywords=deep+blue+filter
Lighthttp://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Mini-Power-Compact-Lamp/dp/B004QSV8XK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363990249&sr=8-1&keywords=compact+aquarium+lamp
Honestly the light is not necessary for some tanks. Bettas light low light and there are a fair share of plants that do just fine with low light.
If you plan on loading your aquarium up with a few more fish than you know it should have, get the six gallon tank and a filter rated for 10 plus gallons.
ALSO!!!!
Spend lots of time on aquarium hobby forums. There is way more (and better) information there than at you local PetSmartCo store.
And remember:
-Bigger tanks are easier to keep in the long run than smaller tanks (read nitrogen cycle).
-Don't overload your tank with life! It will die
-If you choose to cycle your tank (you should) do not change the filter media when the manufacture says to. Only change it when it completely falls apart. Read more about cycling tanks to understand why.
I hope somebody finds this helpful! I will update if my views change
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I really like this aquarium. I have been in the hobby of fish-keeping for most of my life years. This aquarium was given to me as a present and I have had it set up with fish for a couple of weeks now. I can almost guarantee that most of the negative reviews came from people who have no experience in keeping an aquarium; and they blame their bad luck on the aquarium itself rather than their own proficiency.If your water is cloudy (as a different reviewer was complaining)don't blame it on the filter. Yes, the filter is weak but you cannot rely on the filter to keep your water clean. You probably forgot to rinse the gravel, or you are overfeeding, or you are not doing weekly 30% water changes.
I have two fantailed goldfish in it because I didn't want to put an ugly heater in it. Keep that in mind while buying this aquarium. Most tropical fish require a water temperature of at least 72 degrees F. So if your house gets colder than that then you are going to need a heater for those tropical fish. Goldfish can withstand very cold temps so it's not an issue.
Other people complained about always needing to top it off. Yes, water does eventually evaporate but if you top it off while doing your WEEKLY water changes, it will be fine.
Another creative aquarium from Fluval!
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