Brand New Marineland Max-Jet 1200 Item #7280

Brand New Marineland Max-Jet 1200 Item #7280(2008 HOLIDAY TEAM)The Maxi-Jet is the Mercedes of aquarium power-heads. At nearly 300 gallons per hour you know you have plenty of air circulation and water movement. I placed one at each end of the tank to get a circular movement in the top of my aquarium. This gives a nice fast current for the active fish and slightly moves the water at the bottom. They are easy to clean and pack plenty of bubbles into your aquarium for optimum aeration.

This powerhead is built like a tank. I've been using it for a while now and it works just as good as the day I bought it.

It is very powerful, doesn't make much noise, and my fish love it! (especially rubberlip plecos)

I'm currently using it to drive my homemade water polisher. Here's how to create one yourself using this powerhead:

1. Take a small container such as a plastic yogurt container (keep the lid!), rubbermaid container, etc.. and cut a hole in the top lid so that the end of the powerhead intake will fit inside snugly.

2.Fill the container with polyester batting (can be found in the fabric section of stores). A huge bag costs $3 or less and will last forever!

3. Close the lid and stick the end of the powerhead intake through.

4. Turn it on and you are good to go! It makes your water crystal clear, and it continues to create lots of turbulence. Serves as a dual purpose now! Just change out the polyester batting after it gets really dirty.

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Best little damn pump ive ever used, 295g a hour and fits in the palm of your hand, Its been on for the last 2 months in a salt water tank and ive never had a problem....

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I haven't had them long and I make aquarium set ups for customers and friends I used to use Penguin

or Aquaclear and they were good. Maxi-Jet is under estimated because no one talks about how awesome

they are. The prices are 40% less then almost every other powerhead, and push more water per hr at

that price so it a good trade, cant comment on how long they last only been using them now for 3

months but I nor my friends have had problems. Just member to use an extra filter on the intake or

clean the impeller every 2 months at min. and yeah awesome product not scam in quality just note

wait for Amazon to "fullfill" there stock and you get cheap or free shipping to save even more money

I rated its a 4 because I don't know the life of them yet and the power of them is rated a 295gph but

at 1ft head, I use them for returns in my sump with 5ft travel and they still run at 245gph and I still

use Ehiem pumps (expensive but the one I got has ran strong for 5yr without any cleaning because I have a

prefilter in the intake so it never gets clogged) so I say EHIEM OR MAXI-Jet are the best pumps so

if you need a good filtration system run two of these and you wont be sorry.

Also f.y.i an okay filtration system should cycle you water 5-7x the aquarium's size, 10gal 50gph

but best ratio I run and water look n smell good you want to drink if you had to is 15-20x, 10gal

at 200gph, you cant go wrong with an extremely high gph filtration system just be safe it dont

leak bc in a slipt second your water will be in the floor and your turtle will be saying WTH!!

Also word for advice use 100ml of carbon per month per 30gal of water being filter, I use Marine-

Land products best filter media money can buy(at cheap prices too)!! Sorry this was long but someone

might find it helpful, so hopefully someone does!! Happy aquarium hobby to all you aquatic persons!!

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Moves a whole lot of water and should not be considered for small tanks under 55gal. as splashing may result. A good power head for larger under-gravel filters or foam block bacteriological filtering. Parts are readily available, impeller etc.. One caveat, it appears it is too easy to break off the tabs that secure the impeller assembly rendering the entire device trash.

Update after 9 months of use............

The tabs securing the impeller assembly to the head have begun to spread causing the jet direction to change while in use, very frustrating. One one occasion the unit came apart in the tank. I am already looking to find a more durable replacement after just 9 months of use.

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All Glass Aquarium AAG29024 Versa Top, 24-Inch

All Glass Aquarium AAG29024 Versa Top, 24-InchThat about says it all! Perfect fit! Maybe wish the back plastic piece was 1/2" wider, my protein skimmer return barely fits, but it does!

Ordered this Versa Top and I'm not certain I got the one I ordered, as the one I received doesn't reach the back of my tank. Its between a half an inch to an inch short. Thus, it doesn't seal the top like its meant to, without some creative adaptation. Disappointing. Not a satisfying purchase.

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The plastic strip in back is a bit short, though. I am not sure whether the tank will benefit from reduced evaporation losses with such a large gap in back. The glass canopy is good quality, though and looks quite nice.

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My tank looks bigger, roomier. It's nice to see my fishes from above and they seem to like their space.

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I love this in my aquariums because it is so east to just plop a light on top, and I don't have to purchase those specific aquarium hoods, I prefer to use my own specific lighting, and this is the perfect accessory for me.

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Easy Catch 6 Inch Net Extra Long Handle Ideal For All Aquarium Applications 4 Pack

Easy Catch 6 Inch Net Extra Long Handle Ideal For All Aquarium Applications 4 PackI bought these fine mesh nets for handling small fry and tiny shrimps, but the deep pocket is indeed VERY deep almost 3" deep. For larger nets this depth isn't a problem, but a definite problem for a tiny shrimp or fry net because it's difficult to get them back out once netted. Folding the net inside-out adds risk of crushing or damaging the fragile tiny shrimps or fry and trying to wash them out takes extra effort due to the deep pocket.

So, unless you have a particular need for deep pocket, look elsewhere. I'm now back to using the trusty Tetra shrimp nets.

NOT recommended.

Carib Sea Arag - Alive Saltwater Indo - Pacific Black 20 lb

Carib Sea Arag - Alive Saltwater Indo - Pacific Black 20 lbI started a 125 gallon marine tank and with the use of this live sand and about 40 #'s of live rock, I managed to fully cycle my tank in less than a week! Supplier sent me a bag that was "expired" and had no problems giving me a full refund on my purchase. Would highly recommend this product and the vendor I purchased it from!

Ken Pool

Aqueon Tap Water Conditioner

Aqueon 06005 Tap Water Conditioner, 16-OunceI hate to say it, but some of these reviews just leave me shaking my head (no, this didn't kill your fish, and no, the review area of amazon isn't for reviewing a certain seller's packing method).

Anyways, I figured I should review this since the current review score on Amazon is really messed up right now. This product is great, I've used it now for a few years in all of my aquariums with all different types of fish.

Just to note, I've had several different bottles of the Aqueon conditioner, and I've used it in several different tanks (so no, I don't think I got some fluke bottle that for some reason worked better than what others stated).

My 50 gal cichlid tank does well with this product.

My 30 gal cichlid tank does well with this product.

My 20 gal community tank does well with this product.

My 10 gal betta tank does well with ths product.

My 5 gal guppy tank does well with this product.

(I've also had various betta tanks and whatnot over the past few years, and my sister has used this for both brackish and salt water tanks).

Anyways, I've tried this and other conditioners; I personally don't care for the Tetra conditioner, but I do think most of them work fairly well no matter the brand. However, using this conditioner, I've never had cloudy water, I've never head unusual death rates (most of my fish are several years old at this point, many living longer than average life expectancy). So, I don't think you can go wrong with this product; it may be slightly more in cost than the cheapest products out there, but it does work.

If your fish are dying, and you think it is due to this conditioner, I would urge you to re-analyze what the scenario is. Some people will have tap water that cannot be altered enough to be fish safe, even with conditioner, as there are several other particles to take into consideration (ph, iron and other metals being the most obvious concerns). Also, if you are concerned about high chlorine/metals in your water, it doesn't hurt to add more than the recommended dosage of the conditioner. I wouldn't go crazy and add half the bottle, but even so much as doubling the amount recommended shouldn't do any damage. It's a little hard to measure anyways, since the dosage is for 10 gal, but I don't know where people are getting 10 gal buckets at, I usually just use 5gal buckets for water change, and add what looks like a little over half of the 5ml dosage. You could add 5ml for every 2 buckets, but I like to add the conditioner first, then fill up the bucket so it gets nice and mixed with the water.

Anyways, my 2+ cents.

This is an excellent product and great price! I use this to add water to three different tanks so I needed a good qty of it and was able to find it through your site at a reasonable cost. Excellent!

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I've been using this stuff for over a year now and have never lost a fish by using it. The water stays crystal clear and causes no issues with my live plants either.

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Fish are all still alive after a year so it must work fine! I never have a hard time keeping the tank clean either so I know it must help with the hard water and mineral deposits we have here.

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I very disappointed in the packaging for this item. It was not sealed and most of the contents leaked out and onto other items in the box. So I paid for a wet box and very little product.

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Seachem Neutral Regulator 250gram

Seachem Neutral Regulator 250gramAs far as keeping the pH in your aquarium at 7.0 this product works great if used according to the directions. It claims to remove chlorine, chloramine and ammonia with some kind of "conditioning agents" and this may very well be true but if you rely on chemical means to remove ammonia as opposed to doing water changes you are minimally asking for stressed fishes if not sick or dead eventually. In any case, the downfall to this product is that it is made up of phosphate salts, which as you add this product to your tank it causes the phosphates (PO4) to build in concentration. High levels of PO4 in your aquarium is not what you want because it can and will cause algae blooms beyond your control. Ideally, PO4 levels in your tank should be zero to very low levels that can't be detected with colorimetric test kits. If you have algae problems in your tank I highly recommend investing in a PO4 test kit. You must do a water change to get rid of phosphates, don't rely on any product to remove PO4 unless you have a reef tank (salt water) and need to remove low levels!

As far as keeping your pH at neutral you would also make life much easier by investing in a pH pen (i.e. Waterproof pH Tester; ~$40-$100) and the calibration solutions for it. Use liquid pH down (API brand) and you can use store bought baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate; NaHCO3; Arm and Hammer brand fine...cheap too!) to bring your pH up; however, you may still want some liquid pH up too. The NaHCO3 will increase your pH and carbonate hardness (Alkalinity) helping to stabilize your pH as the phosphate buffers do in Seachem's Neutral Regulator WITHOUT the PO4! Turn your pH pen on and take the pH of your tank while you add pH up or down until you increase or decrease the pH by no more than 0.2 pH units. In other words, if your pH is 6.4 and you want to be at 6.9 increase it from 6.4 to 6.6 the first day. Then the next day go from 6.6 to 6.8 etc. My experience is that in the above example you'll find that the pH of 6.6 you set the day before will drop by the following day so just work your way up incrementally. This is because the organisms in your aquarium utilize the carbonate. Also get yourself a hardness test kit too (API brand) that gives you general and carbonate hardness and follow directions for adjusting to levels suitable for your fishes. Incidentally, Drs. Axelrod's and Burgess's fresh and marine atlases, respectively, provide this information for numerous fishes. I know this sounds complicated but the reality is this is the proper way to maintain a fish tank. It's a hobby and should be fun to do! Dedicate some time to caring for the water quality and you'll have much healthier, vibrant and happy fishes!

I purchased this product for my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium. My aquarium had been neglected for some time, and the nitrate levels were over 200ppm, GH over 400, and a KH that would hardly ready anything on the test strip. I added an incorrect buffer (too much baking soda) and shot my pH from 6.6 to 8.4, KH went to 300ppm. I need to get these numbers under control.

I did several water changes and my GH would only show a slight drop and my KH was not moving. My nitrate levels did decrease with better maintenance of the aquarium.

Over the course of 5 days I added 7 teaspoons of Seachem Neutral Regulator. The first day the water turned cloudy and this continued for 2 days. On the 3rd day, I added some AP Crystal Clear water clarifier, which caused the parcipitated calcium and magnesium to clump up and be captured by my HOB filter (AquaClear 50 with pre-filter sponge, biomax, matrix, and foam insert). Each day the pH started to decrease.

12-12-11

pH: 8.4.

Ammonia: 0ppm.

Nitrate: 60ppm.

Nitrite: 0ppm.

GH: 425ppm.

KH: 260ppm.

After adding Seachem Neutral Regulator from 12-16-11 to 12-21-11 (7 teaspoons total and no water changes):

pH: 7.6.

Ammonia: 0ppm.

Nitrate: 0ppm.

Nitrite: 0ppm.

GH: 120ppm.

KH: 120ppm.

Seachem Neutral Regulator softens water, neutralizes ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite.

20 gallon high tank, with undergravel filter, and an old penguin biowheel 100 (upgraded to AquaClear 50 on 11-25-2011). Aquarium has been operating for just under 5 years.

1mature angelfish.

4albino cory catfish.

3guppies.

4platies.

5ghost shrimp.

Several ramshorn snails.

The product does what it says it will do. Although I am currently only at a pH of 7.6, this product is trying to overcome a carbonate based buffer that wants to keep my pH at a high level (8.4). Seachem Neutral Regulator is a phosphate based buffer and had clearly done its job by reducing the pH, GH, and KH.

I would buy this product again and recommend it to others. Please keep in mind that a phosphate based buffer can cause algae growth if planted aquariums. My aquarium is planted, but with plants that do well in low light. Higher light levels can lead to unwanted algae growth (as indicated by the manufacturer).

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I'm essentially going to copy my review for Acid Regulator in this space, because in my experience, the two products are linked I use them together.

Maybe I shouldn't be surprised as to how effective, after all Seachem is a company worth its salt, but I haven't had success with all of their products (Acid Buffer, PH Alert) but I have adored Prime, Flourish and now the "Regulator" series.

Anyway, when used in conjunction with Acid Regulator, the efficacy is amazing. In buffered water the results are extremely predictable. I keep Clown Loaches, Neon Tetras, Albino BN Plecs, and Cories, so soft, slightly acidic water is needed. Finally, a product that helps me get there, and stay there.

I brought the pH down from an enormous 8.0 to 6.8 over the course of 6 weeks (so as to not shock the fish). I have let it lie for 1 week since and the pH is stable. I had to do a little improvising... since my initial pH was so high, and my tap water so unbuffered, I needed more than the recommended dose. I had to add a small amount almost every day after the initial dose, and monitor the results closely with a pH liquid test. (For this I chose API's tests the pH tests are accurate). I would take 4 test tubes, and keep up to 4 previous measurements over the days, so I could see the subtle changes in pH. Trust me, you almost have to do this to tell the difference between, for example, 7.6 and 7.4 on the low pH scale.

Anyway, ever since achieving the target pH of 6.8, I don't need to add Regulator all the time anymore, just when doing a water change. I did one today, added the 1:1 dose of Neutral Reg to Acid Reg and guess what? My pH stayed exactly at 6.8. Awesome.

Ever since getting the pH to where it needed to be, my fish have thrived. They are active, lively, eating well, and growing.

Neutral Regulator works, and it WILL bring your pH to 7, and it WILL buffer your water, even if it softens it, and keep your pH stable.

I dock a star because it's expensive, and because it wasn't particularly intuitive how to use it for proper results. But it wasn't rocket science either, just basic science. :)

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I bought this when I had just moved to a new place. I hadn't fully tested the water but I knew the pH was way too high. Unfortunately this regulator didn't really work but it was because my carbonate levels were out of control. If pH is your only issue then this stuff will probably be great for you. Just make sure you test your water first.

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Pour right into tank and it works instantly and doesn't harm the fish. Also great at Maintain Ph levels in your fish tank

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Sicce Syncra 3.0 Aquarium Pump, 714gph

Sicce Syncra 3.0 Aquarium Pump, 714gphI'm a little hesitant to write this review as it's not a positive one and it seems that most people are quite happy with the product so maybe I got a defective one? I have no idea but I speak the truth on what's happening. This thing is not silent at all. I guess I fell prey to "silent" being in the name and chose it but if this is silent I would hate to hear a loud one. The pump is fully submerged. Water going in and out I guess is silent but the vibration created by the pump is HUGE. It vibrates the entire plumbing outake running through the aquarium which then vibrates the wood stand. This all creates a very loud HUMMMMM, (jokingly in the key of D for any musicians out there). Jokes aside though, it's very loud sitting next to my tv and stereo. I can muffle the vibration a little by holding the plumbing I did in a variety of ways and plan on securing the plumbing with insulation and straps to hold everything tight against the wood stand. This only minimizes the hum by the way. It doesn't eliminate it. If this method doesn't work I'd like to know how I'm going to figure it out or else I will have no choice but buy another pump. Over $100 is a LOT to throw away but this is by far the loudest thing running in the aquarium set up and it's ALL vibration. Somehow minimize the vibration it creates and it would be a nice pump but sheesh, should I have to DIY the thing like crazy to make it useable?

Let me start by saying that I invested heavily in my system to make sure that it was silent. I have spent 7-months "building it" with nearly custom everything. It is a 65G custom rimless Starphire setup with a Herbie overflow to a custom 20G rimless sump. The sump is sitting on 3/8" neoprene and the pump is sitting on a pump vibration pad from Bulk Reef Supply. The return and drain plumbing is all braided vinyl hose. So there is nothing connected which is fixed from the tank and stand to the sump. Everything is flexible, which should transfer no vibration and noise.

For the past week, I have been testing my system out with pure RO/DI water. There is absolutely nothing in the tank to clog or get in the impeller of the pump. And everything else is brand new. Several days ago, the pump has started to make a rather annoying vibrating, rattling sound. The sound gets louder as I increase the intake volume using the adjustable volute. Keep in mind I have only had this pump running for a week in pure RO/DI water and nothing else.

I thought the other reviewers were having problems because of user error or that their systems may have not been designed with silence in mind. However, now I agree with the other reviewers wholeheartedly. This pump is noisy and the sound keeps us up at night. This is with the tank in a completely different room. I am in the process of trying to find another pump. This was just going to be a temporary pump until the new Waveline pumps are available and then be a backup pump in case I ever needed it. However, I am returning this because I don't even want to keep it as a backup pump.

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I've had it in my 50g reef tank a year with no issues. I havent even cleaned it. It did vibrate when it was touching the side glass, but I moved it and its basically silent now. People comment on how quiet my tank is. Its never failed to start or done anything funny. I've owned a few of these pumps on various things from skimmers to nano tanks and they're great.

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Functions as intended. Quiet, I mean super quiet. Suction cup feet are practically worthless, I had to balance the pump on them in the wet/dry, they do not install securely to the pump. That's the only reason I did not give it 5 stars.

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The pump is quiet, very well made, small for its output, came with 2x adapters to fit 0.75 and 1" hose, and makes very little heat my tank temperature dropped the day after I replaced my Mag drive 9.5.

The plastic casing is high quality, not brittle and easily discolored like other brands. The tool-less maintenance is a huge plus, as is the fused magnet-ceramic shaft impeller, which won't

slow the pump down as it cannot lock up with calcium precipitate. The ends of the ceramic shaft are seated in ceramic bushings, which also resist precipitation.

I will update this review when I perform my first maintenance/cleaning.

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